Mossy waterwheels, large weeping trees and diverse architecture define the look of this “island city” where the canals of La Sorgue wind through the landscape.  Once a literal island among the surrounding marsh lands, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – then called “L’Isle en Venaissin” – began as a fishing village, where fishermen survived on their daily crayfish catch (up to 35,000 a day!).  Expanding the city, marshlands were drained as many canals were constructed, earning the city it’s affectionate nickname, “Venice of the Comtat”.  The waterwheels that churned in the canals gave rise to new industry:  flower mills starting in the 12th century, then both wool and silk workshops.   

 

Having moved past its peak industrial days, today L’Isle is and ideal locale to stroll along the ancient canal-side streets where you’ll regularly find folks relaxing on park benches and sipping coffee on sidewalk cafes.  On a regular day the vibe in L’Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue is mellow to say the least, a pleasant city to idle away the afternoon and watch the world go by.  The historical city center was once surrounded by ramparts, and continues to exude the charm created by the marks left by each passing era. The “Tour d’Argent”, which stands near the apse of the church, was built in the 13th century by the Counts of Toulouse. Not far from there, sumptuous city mansions with Gothic or Renaissance façades line the narrow city streets, bearing witness to the fact that Isle-sur-la-Sorgue was once the chief city in the Comtat.  Notre-Dame-des-Anges collegiate church, rebuilt (except for the chancel) in the mid-17th century, is an outstanding example of Baroque art in southern France. The Brun family of architects has left several remarkable constructions, including the Granary, now home to the Tourism Office and the hospital with its lovely vestibule, chapel, apothecary and beautiful garden and fountain. The Brun family also built many city mansions, including the gracious Hôtel de Campredon, now home to the Maison René-Char.

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Over the years, markets and antiquing have practically become the definition of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on the world stage.  Over 300 antique dealers have shops here year round – a number that just about doubles during the Easter weekend and mid-August antique fairs.  Visitors from across Provence and throughout France and Europe flock to the city to take advantage of the tremendous volume of antiques dealers that set up shop here.   Often referred to as “the most charming flea market in the world” and the “antiques capital of France”, this is the quintessential French marketplace, with overflowing selections of fresh produce, herbs, olives and other delicacies alongside one-of-a-kind finds like lacy linens, small trinkets and Baroque furniture.   

 

Every Sunday market stalls pop up in town selling the treasures Provence has to offer.  More than a simple Sunday tradition, the market in L’Isle sur la Sorgue is a way of life.  Every week market stalls pop up in town selling the treasures Provence has to offer.  This is more than just a market – it’s a way of life.  Market stalls take over the town, winding through the streets, lined up beside the canals and in the pedestrian squares.  Everything you’d imagine a Provencal market to have is here:  herbs, butchers, cheeses and more in-season produce than you’ll know what to do with.  Stop into town and pick up your groceries for a fantastic dinner at home or grab enough for a picnic lunch in Parc Gauthier.  While you’re at the market, it’s a perfect opportunity to soak up the Provençal culture and the warmth and friendliness of the locals.  You’ll find that antique vendors, generally, are on the ‘city’ side of the street that circles the town, while across on the ‘island’ side you will find cafés, restaurants, shops, butchers, boulangeries and more.  On Thursdays throughout the summer there is also a smaller market that takes place.  On Sunday, we suggest you park in the lot that is on the right before the train bridge as you head into town.  Though it’s a couple minutes walk from town, it’s free and easily accessible.

 

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Other than the markets, if it is antiques you are searching for you could simply wander the streets of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and find almost anything your heart desires. Referred to as the French antiques mecca, there are around three hundred antique dealers in the area.

The tourist office—Place de la Liberté//33 4 90 38 04 78—has a comprehensive list of antique shops if you are interested. You can also see it online at www.oti-delasorgue.fr/in-english/prat_antiquite.php. Some shops of note are:

Xavier Nicod—9 avenue des Quatre Otages//33 (0)6 07 85 54 59//www.xaviernicod.com

Mémoires d’un Ane—5 avenue des Quatre Otages//33 (0)4 90 20 63 15

Le Mas de Curebourg—D901 on the Route d’Apt//33 (0)4 90 20 30 06//mas-de-curebourg.com 

Bernard Roux—33 (0)4 90 38 32 24, La Petite Curieuse—Rue de la République//33 (0)4 90 20 86 59, Catherine Auffret Antiqués—336 Cours Emile Zola//33 (0)4 90 75 78, and Denis and Cristine Nossereau—33 (0)6 08 82 63 05.

Also of interest are the antique villages (buildings that house multiple dealers) like:

Le Village des Antiquaires de la Gare—2 Avenue de l’Egalité//33 (0)4 90 38 04 57 

Passage du Pont—7 Avenue des Quatre Otages//33 (0)4 90 20 69 93

Hôtel Dongier—15 esplanade Robert Vasse//33 (0)4 90 38 63 63//www.hoteldongierantiques.fr.